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H. a. HUEY. FABRIC FOR Lmmcs AND OTHER usas. APPLlCATlON FILED MAR. 15,1919. RENEWED JULY 7, 1921.

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Z QIUL I wtorneg STATE-S i harem orrie HAROLD'I. H'UEY, 01F SAYLESVILLE,RHODE ISLAND, ASSIGNOR, BY MESNE ASSIGNL MEETS, ,TO SAYIIES FINISHINGPLANTS, INC., 01 SAYLESVILLE, RHUDE ISLAND, A

GOMQRATION 0F RHODE ISLAND.

EABRIG F03 LININGS AND OTHER USES.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Sept. 13, 11221.

Application filed March 15, 1919, Serial No. 282,934.. Renewed July 7,1921. Serial No. 483,087.

To all whom it may concern Be it known that I HAROLD 1. Hour, a citizenof the United States, residing at Saylesville, in the county ofProvidence, State of Rhode Island, have invented a certain new anduseful Improvement in Fabrics for Linings and other Uses, of which thefollowing is a specification, reference being had therein to theaccompanying drawings.

The invention consists in web material having a permanent stiffness andcrispness in portions thereof, not destroyed by wet ting, produced byspecial treatment subsequent to the fabrication thereof, and havingother portions in a soft and pliable state adapted to facilitate foldingas well as to serve as hinges. The said stifi' and crisp portions, forinstance, may predominate,- and the pliable portions may be narrowinterme diate bands or lines, or the proportions may vary in practice.

The invention is useful in the case of web material used in themanufacture of linings, and in other connections in which the fabric isrequired to be folded upon itself. lit is applicable in the case ofwoven, knitted, felted, or paper webs.

The drawing is a somewhat conventional representation of a pieceof'woven fabric embodying the invention. It is intended to illustratemerely one of various possible adaptations of the invention. Theportions of the said fabric which are marked 1, 1, etc., are those towhich artificial stifiness has been imparted by the special treatmentaforesaid subsequent to the removal of the fabric from the loom in whichthe weaving thereof was efi'ected. The portions 2, 2, etc., thereof arethose which are soft and pliable. These latter portions, in thisinstance, are in the form of straight and parallel narrow bandsalternating with the stiffened portions, which are in the form of widebands.

The special treatment by which permanent stiflening of the portions 1,1, is effected in practice may vary. Preferably such treatment will beof a-chemical nature and involve some metamorphosis of the fibrousstructure. For instance, it may involve subjecting such portions to theaction of sulfuric acid, or muriatic acid, nitric acid, or phosphoricacid, or a mixture of such acids, or cuprous oxid, or zinc chlorid, orsome other parchmentizing agent. The acid or other agent may be appliedto such portions by printing it thereon, leaving the portions 2, 2,untouched, or the portions 2, 2, may be printed with a resist, such asconverted starch, prior to subjecting the fabric to a bath containingthe said parchmentizing acid or other agent. Whichever method isfollowed, the portions'2, 2, will remain unmetamorphosed, and normal. Inproceedmg according to the second of the said methods, for example, aweb of bleached cotton cloth will be taken, resist applied to theportions thereof which are to remain soft and pliable, the cloth thenpassed through a bath of the sulfuric acid or other parchmentizingagent, the acid washed out, the cloth dried, and the cloth then finishedto meet requirements, as by tentering.

When the finished cloth is cut up into pieces of the required shapes andsizes, respectively, usually comprising adjacent stifi'- ened portionsand an intermediate pliable portion, the folding of apiece within thepliable portion thereof will be facilitated.

The portions 2, 2, retain the full substanceand strength of the cloth.They are not as liable to crack or otherwise sufier as a result ofbending as the stiffened portions would be, or as a result of wear.

To render the flexible portions of the fabric more readily discernible,they may be colored so as to contrast with the stifi'ened portions.Narrow bands or lines such as those shown in the drawings constitutealso cutting lines, i. 6., guides which may be followed in cutting thecloth up for use.

The proportions, form, and lay-out of the stiffened portions 1, 1, andflexible portions 2, 2, may var in practice to suit the intended uses ofthe abric.

Usually in practice I employ fabric of uniform original texture, as forinstance wide piece goods of any approved weave, although in some casesthe fabric may be specially woven of reduced thickness in those placeswhich are not to be artificially stifl'ened, or otherwise constructed soas to facilitate the folding.

The class of linings for which a fabric embodying the invention isespecially useful is that comprising those which are used in cufis andcollars. It is useful also for the manufacture of linings for otherarticles of apparel, and in various cases may be used for the productionof'a cuff-exterior or other desired article composed of'one or morestiffened surface-layers and a flexible turn or fold portion.

In some cases I mercerize the web after having been subjected to thetreatment aforesaid, whereby a more permanent stiffening is secured lessaffected by the washing to which cufl s, etc, are subjected in use.

.What is claimed as the invention is,--

1. Web material having a permanent stiffness in portions thereofproduced by treat ment of the web subsequent to the formation of thelatter, and havin other portions thereof in a soft and plia 1e stateadapted tofacilitate folding.

2. Web material having portions thereof greater flexibility of normalfibrous struc-' v ture.

3. Web material having portions thereof stiffened by parchmentizing orequivalent metamorphosis, and bands or lines of normal fibrous structurewhich have been made distinguishable to serve as guides in cutting.

4. A fabric of uniform original texture, which has been made permanentlystiff expept at predetermined folding or cutting mes.

In testimony whereof I aflix my signature in presence of two witnesses.Y

HAROLI' I. HUEY. Witnesses:

NATHAN B. DAY,

OHAs. F. RANDALL.

